Micro-Mark #80463 Microlux Tilt Arbor Table Saw Instructions

Operating Instructions for #80463 MicroLux Tilting Arbor Table Saw

A. SET-UP INSTRUCTIONS
Do not plug cord into electrical outlet until all set-up steps are completed.

IMPORTANT NOTE: BLADE
INSTALLED ON SAW IS FOR
CUTTING WOOD ONLY.

1. For your safety, mount your saw in a location that does not require you or an observer to stand in line with the saw blade. Your saw must be securely mounted to a sturdy table or workbench before use. Using the template on page 4, drill four 1/4" diameter holes through your tabletop and secure the saw to the workbench with the screws and washers provided. As an alternate, to maintain some portability of your saw mounting, use the template to drill holes through a piece of 3/4" thick plywood and secure the saw with #10-32 x 1-1/4" Flat Head Machine Screws from your local hardware store; then use a minimum of two C-clamps to attach the plywood/saw combination to your workbench. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN SCREWS. 2. Remove clean-out/blade storage door on right side of saw. Turn screw counter-clockwise with flat blade screwdriver. Swing bottom of door out and up until top of door is free from housing. 3. Remove packing material from inside of saw housing. 4. Install blade guard as follows: insert slotted end of blade guard support arm into blade slot in table top and between metal plate and motor housing as shown in drawing. Tighten holding screws securely with a cross-point (Phillips) screwdriver. 5. Check blade mounting screw for tightness before operating saw. See blade changing instructions that follow. (Section B). 6. Replace door.

B. BLADE CHANGING INSTRUCTIONS
Always unplug saw before changing blades.

1. Remove blade plate on top of saw table by removing two screws holding plate to table.
2. Raise blade to its full up position. (See C-2).
3. Insert long end of smaller allen wrench supplied into small hole in table top. Turn saw blade by hand until allen wrench drops into arbor hole and prevents arbor shaft and blade from turning.
4. Insert small end of larger allen wrench into socket head cap screw on end of blade arbor. Remove screw, washer and blade by turning screw counterclockwise. 5. Install new blade by reversing operations 1 through 4. Tighten hex head cap screw securely. Note: When using a blade thinner than .030", do not use the blade guard.
6. Adjust blade plate to suit different blade thicknesses and angles by sliding
towards or away from blade. Keep blade plate at least 1/32" away from blade.
7. Blade may also be changed through clean out/blade storage door.

C. CHANGING BLADE ANGLE AND BLADE HEIGHT
Never change angle of blade with saw running.

1. CHANGING ANGLE OF BLADE
Loosen locking knob and angle adjusting knob by turning counterclockwise. Move angle locking knob until blade is set to desired angle. Then turn both knobs clockwise to lock.

2. CHANGING HEIGHT OF BLADE
Loosen locking knob by turning counter- clockwise.Turn blade height knob clockwise to raise blade and counterclockwise to lower blade.Then turn locking knob clockwise to lock.

D. DUST COLLECTOR TTACHMENT

Connect vacuum cleaner hose to vacuum port at back of saw. Use rubber adapter included, if necessary, to accommodate variations in hose diameter.

E. SAW OPERATION

1. CROSS CUTTING
Cross cutting is a cut across the short dimension of a piece of wood (usually across the grain). Remove rip fence and ALWAYS USE MITER GAUGE WHEN CROSS CUTTING. Adjust blade height so it is approximately 1/16" above the wood. Hold the wood securely against the face of the miter gauge with one hand. Grasp the miter gauge lock knob with the other hand, keeping your hand away from the blade. Push wood and miter gauge slowly past the blade. Before making another cut, remove any loose pieces of wood from the table using the end of a push stick. Should any pieces get caught in the blade guard or in the slot in the table top, unplug cord before removing. For angle cuts, set the desired angle on the miter gauge and handle the wood in the same manner as described above. For precision angular cuts, use a protractor or other angle measuring device to set the angle of the miter gauge.

To support extra long stock when cross cutting, pull out the table extension and swing extension support leg down. 2. RIPPING
Ripping is a cut along the long dimension of a piece of wood (usually with the grain). Remove miter gauge and ALWAYS USE THE RIP FENCE WHEN RIPPING. Select a piece of wood that is flat and has at least one straight edge. The wood should be checked by holding it against a flat surface to see if it rocks or if any large gaps of light can be seen under it. If the edge is not straight, correct it with a hand plane or sandpaper. If the wood does not have a straight edge to ride along the rip fence it can bind and cause a kickback. Always feed the piece being cut completely through and past the blade. Never release the stock while it is still touching the blade. A kickback may result. Feed work past the blade slowly. If the blade slows down, you are feeding too fast. Use two push sticks, one in each hand, to push short or narrow workpieces past the blade. Use one stick to push the stock and hold it down to the table. Use the other push stick to hold the stock against the fence. Set the width of the piece to be cut by measuring from the offset tip of the blade tooth to the rip fence. Tighten front locking knob on rip fence to square it to the blade and to lock it in place, then tighten rear locking knob.

F. SAW BLADES AND CUTTING SPEEDS
Refer to chart below

1. A NOTE ABOUT SAW BLADES:
Because your saw is powerful at slow speeds, it is capable of cutting soft metals. However, keep in mind that even carbide tipped saw blades will become dull and wear much faster when cutting metal. For example, you could cross-cut a 3/4" x 3/4" bar of aluminum with the carbide blade, but you could do the same with an inexpensive blade in a hack saw. In other words, don't waste a $30.00 blade on a cut that could be made with a $1.00 blade. 2. A NOTE ABOUT DC MOTORS AND SPEED VARIATION:
During use you may find that the minimum blade speed will not always be consistent. At some times the slowest speed will be faster than it is at other times. This is an inherent characteristic of variable speed DC motors with load compensation circuitry. In most cases the blade speed will return to its slowest speed once the circuitry is put under load (when the cut is started). This variation can also be minimized by turning the speed control knob as slowly as possible when changing from one speed to another.

SPEED CONTROL KNOB SETTING

MATERIAL/THICKNESS 80 Tooth Standard 24 Tooth Carbide Tip 68 Tooth Jeweler's Blade

Hardwood & Softwood up to 1/4" 4-6 4-6 --

Balsa & Basswood up to 1" 4-6 4-6 --

Hardwood over 1/4" -- 4-6 --

Plastic over 1/16" -- 1-3 --

Plastic under 1/16" -- 1-3 1-3

Plywood up to 3/4" -- 4-6 --

Soft Brass 1/16"-1/8"* -- 1-3 1-3

Soft Brass under 1/16"* -- -- 1-3

Brass Tubing* -- -- 1-3

Aluminum over 1/16"* -- 1-3 --

*NOTE: All metals over 1/32" should be cross-cut only (up to 1" width). To rip very thin brass, sandwich the brass between 2 pieces of 3/32" basswood. Hold brass to basswood with tape or spots of cyanoacrylate glue. Then cut with 168 tooth Jeweler's Blade. FEED ALL METAL SLOWLY.

TEMPLATE FOR LOCATING AND DRILLING MOUNTING HOLES
Image is not to size

Go to #80463 Catalog Page

B. BLADE CHANGING INSTRUCTIONS Always unplug saw before changing blades.
1. Remove blade plate on top of saw table by removing two screws holding plate to table. 2. Raise blade to its full up position. (See C-2). 3. Insert long end of smaller allen wrench supplied into small hole in table top. Turn saw blade by hand until allen wrench drops into arbor hole and prevents arbor shaft and blade from turning. 4. Insert small end of larger allen wrench into socket head cap screw on end of blade arbor. Remove screw, washer and blade by turning screw counterclockwise.		5. Install new blade by reversing operations 1 through 4. Tighten hex head cap screw securely. Note: When using a blade thinner than .030", do not use the blade guard. 6. Adjust blade plate to suit different blade thicknesses and angles by sliding towards or away from blade. Keep blade plate at least 1/32" away from blade. 7. Blade may also be changed through clean out/blade storage door.

C. CHANGING BLADE ANGLE AND BLADE HEIGHT Never change angle of blade with saw running.
	1. CHANGING ANGLE OF BLADE Loosen locking knob and angle adjusting knob by turning counterclockwise. Move angle locking knob until blade is set to desired angle. Then turn both knobs clockwise to lock. 2. CHANGING HEIGHT OF BLADE Loosen locking knob by turning counter- clockwise.Turn blade height knob clockwise to raise blade and counterclockwise to lower blade.Then turn locking knob clockwise to lock.

	*D. DUST COLLECTOR TTACHMENT*
	Connect vacuum cleaner hose to vacuum port at back of saw. Use rubber adapter included, if necessary, to accommodate variations in hose diameter.

*E. SAW OPERATION*
1. CROSS CUTTING Cross cutting is a cut across the short dimension of a piece of wood (usually across the grain). Remove rip fence and ALWAYS USE MITER GAUGE WHEN CROSS CUTTING. Adjust blade height so it is approximately 1/16" above the wood. Hold the wood securely against the face of the miter gauge with one hand. Grasp the miter gauge lock knob with the other hand, keeping your hand away from the blade. Push wood and miter gauge slowly past the blade. Before making another cut, remove any loose pieces of wood from the table using the end of a push stick. Should any pieces get caught in the blade guard or in the slot in the table top, unplug cord before removing. For angle cuts, set the desired angle on the miter gauge and handle the wood in the same manner as described above. For precision angular cuts, use a protractor or other angle measuring device to set the angle of the miter gauge. To support extra long stock when cross cutting, pull out the table extension and swing extension support leg down.	2. RIPPING Ripping is a cut along the long dimension of a piece of wood (usually with the grain). Remove miter gauge and ALWAYS USE THE RIP FENCE WHEN RIPPING. Select a piece of wood that is flat and has at least one straight edge. The wood should be checked by holding it against a flat surface to see if it rocks or if any large gaps of light can be seen under it. If the edge is not straight, correct it with a hand plane or sandpaper. If the wood does not have a straight edge to ride along the rip fence it can bind and cause a kickback. Always feed the piece being cut completely through and past the blade. Never release the stock while it is still touching the blade. A kickback may result. Feed work past the blade slowly. If the blade slows down, you are feeding too fast. Use two push sticks, one in each hand, to push short or narrow workpieces past the blade. Use one stick to push the stock and hold it down to the table. Use the other push stick to hold the stock against the fence. Set the width of the piece to be cut by measuring from the offset tip of the blade tooth to the rip fence. Tighten front locking knob on rip fence to square it to the blade and to lock it in place, then tighten rear locking knob.