High Performance Resistance Soldering Unit at an Affordable Price
Solders feeder wires to model railroad track without melting plastic ties!
Be sure to watch the video . . .
Easy-to-use resistance soldering unit generates heat only at the joint, so that already-soldered parts won't fall off while adding new ones. How it works: With the ground clip connected, place the carbon electrode on the tip of the handpiece in contact with the part to be soldered and step on the foot switch. The transformer passes a safe, low-voltage electrical current through the part, which heats it to soldering temperature within seconds. Apply the solder, then release the foot switch to instantly cool for a strong, durable joint. Includes 63 watt* transformer with dual power outputs for heavy- and light-weight parts, handpiece, 6 carbon electrodes, ground lead, on-off foot switch, and instructions.
*Since a resistance soldering unit concentrates heat at the joint, it will heat larger work than will a conventional soldering iron of the same power.
Tips & Tricks
Several weeks ago I ordered a resistance soldering unit from Micro-Mark. I am a train enthusiast with a N scale layout. I am in the process of upgrading to DCC from analog and needed to replace the tracks with new tracks with feed wires every 12 inches. I have seen some N scale clubs who solder these feed wires on the outside edge of their tracks, and it looks terrible.
I decided to take a gamble and buy from you item #85522 - the MicroLux Resistance Soldering Unit. It took me several hours to figure out how to use it effectively; however the finished results are stunning.
I was able to solder 22 gauge copper wires every 12 inches to my new brass track before it is installed on the layout. The gap between the ties is so small I had to use a box cutter knife to sharpen the carbon tip of the hand unit so it would fit between the ties.
The soldering process I used was as follows:
1. Removed connecting plastic between two appropriate sleepers to expose the bottom of the track.
2. Put flux on the track.
3. Touched the track with the stick solder an then touched the track at that spot with the tapered end of the carbon rod in the hand unit and pressed the foot switch to spark it.
4. The spark melted the solder and left a small pool of solder.
5. Placed the end of my wire (pre-tinned) on top of the pool of solder and sparked it with the hand unit.
By the end, I had wires carefully soldered to the bottom of my track every 12 inches (where they will be hidden by the track ballast). Once I had the process figured out, none of the plastic ties show any melting from the heat. Those who have seen what I have done are amazed.
Submitted by James R. via email